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Grounded in the vigor and purpose of American sportswear, Fall/Winter 2018 evokes the annual epiphany of autumn—when the world snaps into focus, becoming at once sharper, richer, and more substantial. “I always strive for wearability and transitional attire that slips in and out of your closet, choosing to focus on the details that make an item cherished,” says Catherine Holstein, creative director of KHAITE. “With this collection, I wanted to take that appeal further.”

The eased silhouettes of borrowed menswear provided a starting point, apparent in dropped shoulder seams, shirttail hems, and boldly scaled collars. “I worked with each garment to create an oversized effect,” explains Holstein, “while using tailoring to slyly slim down the waist or bring forward the shoulder, which gives a more sculpted illusion.”
The materials on which KHAITE was founded—cashmere, cotton, and denim—are joined for fall by textures, patterns, and colors that accentuate the collection’s play of contrasts. Glen plaid, a suiting staple, is subverted by the choice of silky viscose and distinctively feminine lines, and a tailored wool coat is made dynamic by an exploded heritage plaid. Plush, merlot-hued velvet imparts a lush new dimension to a double-breasted jacket and cropped trousers.
“I wanted the plaid to represent the masculine, more austere elements that I was fusing with the velvet, which is distinctly feminine and sensual,” says Holstein. “The meeting of the two elements pushes it to a darker place—more mysterious.” It’s a mood extended through refined blouson effects, intriguing slits, heathered cashmere, and jeans reinterpreted in buttery black leather.
Denim is a lively, classic counterpoint to the collection’s dramatic flourishes. The Fiona jean balances a high rise with a cropped flare, tracing its youthful yet refined silhouette in marigold topstitching. Accented by copper rivets, this new style gains personality from back patch pockets with chamfered corners. “This collection is surely the most classic to date, aesthetically,” adds Holstein, “yet each piece has special details that make it unique.”